Model Railroad Blog

The Elements of Skill

Decisions related to color strategy and composition make a far greater contribution to visual impact than manual dexterity, rivet counting, or “detail dumping”. The culture of our hobby would lead you to believe the opposite.


There are two components of skill, manual execution and decision making. Decision making entails knowing “what to do” and, as the name implies, manual execution means having the physical ability to pull something off. What’s interesting is that the mix of the two components is not the same for each endeavor.

Olympic level archery leans heavily on the actual physical execution, not so much on decision making. An NFL quarterback needs a 50/50 mix. Let’s say it’s third and long and two receivers break a little bit free. A hall of famer makes the decision as to which is the best choice. That’s not enough though, he needs the athletic skill to get the ball to the receiver on the money.

Model railroading is on the other end of the spectrum, and that works to our advantage. Getting an effective result is largely dependent upon knowing “what to do” and far less so on any degree of eye-hand coordination.

As much as we all strive for prototypical accuracy, the lion’s share of visual impact is delivered by composition, color strategy, and basic neatness. The eye isn’t going to pick up on whether that window has six panes and not twelve. However, it will quickly hone in on something where the color is off. That’s where decision making comes in. It’s just as easy to pick the correct color of spray paint as the wrong one. It’s just as easy to paint those oversize safety ladders a darker, muted hue, as it is to paint them electric yellow. (electric yellow may be prototypical, but it immediately draws attention to the fact that said rails are a scale six inches in diameter, not one inch).

Let’s look at the interlocking tower shown in the lead photo. The culture of model railroading being what it is, many would paint it a brilliant, opaque ochre with solid green trim as shown on the kit’s cover art. If you study the many excellent full color rail books out on the market, however, you’ll notice that the majority of structures are white, and a dull slightly slate colored white at that. Next in frequency of use would be grays, oxide reds, and beige. If you lean towards those percentages, the realism of your scenes will get a bump. Building the tower as shown above is within the skill level of even an entry-level hobbyist. Paint the model with gray primer and let it dry. Next, fog on a layer of Tamiya Flat White. After letting the white dry a few minutes lightly scrape away some of the paint with a dull blade or screw driver. The roof was painted with red primer and given an India Ink/alcohol wash. That was it.

Making an even more significant contribution to visual impact than color treatment is composition. (this refers to the elements we incorporate, their size, relative position, and the space between them). Given it’s importance, it’s surprising how rarely the topic comes up…i.e. never! As a result, since its inception, the hobby has been mired in the swamp of highly compressed scenes with very little space between elements or towns. In order to be deemed worthy of making it to the layout’s surface, elements typically need to be rail oriented or architectural eye-catchers. It’s an approach that creates scenes more reminiscent of an amusement park than a working railroad, typical town, or your average industrial zone. As with color, creating an effective composition is driven by effective decisions, not manual execution. It’s just as easy to place three appropriate elements on a layout surface, ones that look like they belong, as it is to place a circus tent, hot dog stand, and Victorian mansion. It’s just as easy, perhaps easier, to dedicate ample negative space for that field or gravel parking lot, than trying to squeeze two more kits into the same area.

All of this leads towards worrying less about being the next Michelangelo and thinking a lot more about what decisions need to be made and what the choices you make will be.

Color Saturation & Hue

Looking at the image above, note how quickly the colors lose saturation with distance. Note the high percentage of subdued colors such as gray, pale beige, and burnt umber. Awareness of this reality can go a long way towards improving the realism of our layouts.


Two of the driving elements of visual impact are color treatment and composition. Details matter but don’t catch the eye nearly as much. Today, let’s discuss color, hue and saturation specifically.

Saturation refers to the brilliance, or lack thereof (i.e. fade), of color. Awareness of the impact of the subject can go a long ways towards increasing the realism of our layouts. Culturally, the hobby leans towards deep and vivid saturation and an emphasis on primary colors. Look at the box art on most kits and you’ll see my point. This approach points you in the opposite direction of the real world.

First, regardless of how vivid the color of a prototype surface actually is, the further away you view it from, the more the color disappears. Even a bright red will appear grayish from a half a mile away. We run into a math problem with our models that’s not obvious. Let’s say you’re standing in the aisle and looking at a scene on your layout. You’re only three or four feet away so you get no fade from distance and atmosphere. But…and here’s the problem….you’re a “scale” three or four hundred feet away. In scale terms you should be seeing some fade. In addition, with distance objects quickly appear to lose any gloss they may actually have and assume a dead flat sheen.

The second issue is the selection of the palette itself, color hue. In the real world the vast majority of man made surfaces are: white, slate gray, beige, burnt umber, or oxide (brick) red. As you go back in time to earlier eras this is even more the case, most houses were white or brick.

We can go a long way towards increasing the realism of our layouts by greatly limiting the use of primary colors on our structures, using less saturated colors where we can, and making sure all surfaces have a flat sheen.

DTS Oct. 31 Update

Work continues on Filito’s Market on 12th Avenue. Since the last update, the roof awning was finished as were the banks of security bars along the front.

The steel awning was made from Evergreen #4544 Board and Batten siding. There are angled support brackets underneath made from .060″ styrene. For coloring, I very lightly dusted on Rustoleum Iced Gray from their chalked line of paint. The dusting was light enough that some of the white styrene showed through in places. To bring out the ribs, I gave it a wash of very dilute India Ink and alcohol. ( I think it was roughly 1/2 tsp. per pint)

The banks of security bars were from Tichy. Each bar panel was carefully trimmed. I then lined the bank up against a steel rule and glued a piece of .015″ spring wire along the back with CA to hold everything together. I then airbrushed them with one of Tamiya’s darker grays, I can’t remember which one exactly.

New Miami Book Now Available!

Over the years, I’ve received many requests from my readers to put out a book on my Miami layouts. It took a while, but that day has arrived. The book is now live and available on Amazon. While heavily slanted towards being a photo album, I also cover the thoughts behind the layouts and their history. I discuss the problems that arose and the mistakes I made. I’ve gone back and re-mastered/re-edited many of my older photos.