Model Railroad Blog

Vacant Lots

Vacant lot on the extension model of my LAJ layout.


The key to realistic composition is to model the typical, the ordinary, what the eye subconsciously expects to see. In our world, a common element is the mundane vacant lot. Personally, I find these trickier to pull off than you’d think.

A typical open lot on the Santa Fe in Los Angeles. Studying photos answers a lot of questions. This is the one I’m working off of.

After years of trial and error, here is where I am on the learning curve. By sharing this, hopefully I can shorten your curve!

Some observations:

-As the base layer, you want to work with extremely fine material. This means grout (sanded or unsanded) or powders as opposed to ballast.

-You want to strive for subtle variations in color, and you want the transitions between these variations to be feathery, with no hard edges. The color variations should be very slight, just a hair of a slant in hue one direction or the other. Nothing harsh.

-You want just a hint of variation in texture on the top layer. Not much. Just a few larger grains here and there.

-Working with fines is tricky. You want a perfectly smooth surface with no brush marks, no hills and valleys or high spots, and no adhesive “craters.”


Key materials ( in no particular order): Fine mister bottle, large bowl of your base grout mix, smaller cups of slight color variations, a soft fan brush, Arizona Rock and Mineral “Beach Sand”.

Here’s the step-by-step of how I did the lot in the lead photo:

-Mix up a decent-sized bowl of your base lot color. For LA, I used PolyBlend “Haystack” for the bulk of the material. As is, the color was a little too bright out of the package. To knock the edge off, I mixed in a bit of PolyBlend “Natural Gray” until I noticed a slight color change to “slightly grungy”. This will be the bulk of the material for the lot coverage

-To give slight color variations, I poured a bit of the base color into a separate cup and added a little more Natural Gray to make it darker. I poured more base color into another cup and added a bit of PolyBlend “Coffee Bean” to give another hue. Just a touch until you see the color changing.

-Now for the application. Make up a dilute mix of matte medium (I part medium, 2 1/2 parts water, a tiny drop of dish detergent). Using a wide, flat brush, spread a thin layer of medium over your work surface.

-The grout application method is crucial. Do NOT use a cup or spoon! Taking the finest mesh sifter you can find, lightly sprinkle the base color of the lot over your surface until you have full coverage.

-Now, go to your two color variants and lightly sprinkle a bit here and there from fairly high up (twelve to fifteen inches). You want to avoid noticeable edges in the color transitions. If you so see the edges, soften them with another sprinkling of the base.

-For texture variation, I took a tiny finger pinch of Arizona Rock and Mineral “Beach Sand” and dropped it here and there from about eighteen inches up.

-To get a final adhesive seal, obtain a very fine mister bottle. Further dilute your matte medium mix by a third to a half, and spray it over your surface.

It’s common to see gravel piles here and there in industrial lots. Using a medicine cup, I poured a few using Arizona Rock and Mineral “Northern Pacific” HO ballast as the blend.


Still to be worked out are the tire marks in the gravel. Not easy! I’ll experiment with a few methods on test samples first. i.e. the layout is NOT the place for testing! I also need to add some vegetation, old tie stacks, etc. Stay tuned.

Railroad Man, Pg. 61

There is a direct link between understanding prototype operations, layout design, and how enjoyable operating our layout is. Richard Paseman’s “Railroad Man” is an absolute clinic on switching operations.

Page 61.

“One night on the Harbor District, we ran cab hop from Watson Yard to Alcoa and kicked the waycar down the spur. The other brakeman and I took the engine and began switching spot cars from the storage tracks. For hours, we worked lining up grimy black tank cars. At a glance, they might all look the same, but the switch list tells which ones are to be spotted and the order they are to be lined up.”

In other words every car spot is, in effect, its own separate industry.

Watson Yard is located just north of the port and is still very active.

Federal Cold Storage

Federal Cold Storage gets switched out on my LAJ layout. In the foreground is my newly acquired Rapido MTC (Mechanical Temperature Controlled) reefer.

Located at the intersection of Downey Rd. and District Blvd., the prototype was imposing to be sure. Although it did receive rail service, from listening to former LAJ workers, I get the impression it did not see large volumes of activity. Sadly, the structure was demolished sometime around 2018.

My only photo, taken on a trip in 2015. I made the mistake of assuming it would always be there, so I didn’t take more shots of it.

The model on the layout is a lightly kitbashed version of Walthers Frost Cold Storage.

A Pro Explains Shoving Moves

A duo of Nashville and Western units uses a series of push/pull moves to switch the 3M plant in Old Hickory (Nashville suburb), TN.


After posting yesterday’s blog and track plan, I reached out to my resident expert on prototype operations, retired NS railroader, Tom Holley. My question was, at what point does a shoving move distance become too long as to be impractical? Tom replied:


Hello, Lance.

The actual answer is, it depends. A lot of shoving moves depend on era. When railroads regularly used cabooses, they often shoved a long way, often several miles.

The last 12 years I worked I was on a NS paper mill switch engine. We made a daily three and 1/2 mile shove to the NS interchange. On occasion we would shove seven miles out to the CSXT interchange. We didn’t have a shoving platform; instead, the conductor lined up a covered hopper or a tank car on the bottom to ride on. That’s a lot easier than hanging on the side of a boxcar.

Another factor, again era specific, is the rules don’t allow you (in most cases I know of, other railroads/divisions may vary) to jerk cars by or even gravity drop them to get around them. So you’re compelled to shove the cars if the switches are facing point, or split the engines to work the industries. Many shortline operate with an engine on each end exactly for that reason.

On one of our local jobs, we had no runaround track at the end point. It was in a dip with a pretty good grade on each side, so we’d put the engines toward the industry, bleed the cars off, let them roll by. and then run out and catch them. Because somebody on another division messed up doing that, we had to stop and start splitting the engines to run around the train. That just took a lot longer…

Another factor is speed of the shoving movement. We were limited, on my territory, to a shoving speed of 15 mph. That’s not a consideration on a branch or short line, but makes a difference on a high volume main line.

As a trainman, I never minded the regular shove of three miles, or even the long seven mile shove if I had a good car to ride on. What is important is having a good engineer who won’t beat you to death with jerky movements while shoving. As an engineer, I always tried to make a light trainline application to make the ride smooth, and not use the engine brake to avoid beating the man on the bottom up with slack.

So, with a good engineer and a good car to ride on, I never minded shoving. I hope this wordy reply answers your question!


There is a direct link between having an understanding of prototype practices and model railroad design. Runarounds take up an enormous amount of space, space most of us modelers don’t have. If we follow the prototype’s preference for shoves instead of runarounds we can save space, open our designs up, and have a plan that is much more plausible.

W.S. Dodge

My latest project of late has been the W.S. Dodge structure on the LAJ extension (prototype address is 3710 Fruitland Avenue). I chose this particular structure because of its nondescript appearance and typical “LA look”.

Construction followed my usual photo laminate technique over a styrene core. The base images were captured from Google Streetview. It took a LOT of photo editing but I was able to get the shots where I wanted them.

Here’s my final laminate image if anybody wants to take a stab at it. Print it out at 10.9 inches on glossy photo paper.