Model Railroad Blog

General Ship Repair

The roof covers a lot of surface area so special attention needed to be given to getting the coloring right. The base material was Evergreen car siding.

In terms of coloring the order of application was:

-First, the entire surface was painted with Rustoleum light gray primer and allowed to dry overnight

-The next day the entire surface was given a wash of burnt umber artist oils and mineral spirits using vertical strokes. An effort was made to work in vertical streaks. Again, I let this dry overnight.

-I wanted subtle horizontal bands to imply edges to the corrugated metal sheeting so I applied masking tape on the surface and lightly dusted the tape edge with an India Ink/alcohol mix in my airbrush (2 tsp ink/pint). Once I had three noticeable horizontal bands I went over the entire surface again with a dusting of the ink/alcohol mix.

-I masked off a few random panels and painted them either dark gray or light gray primer.

-Finally, I used a mix of brown and rust chalk to add streaks to the lighter panels.

The back side of the roof peak won’t be visible so as I worked I always started the paint steps there to make sure a technique would work before moving to the more visible front side.

General Ship Repair

Building flats serve a useful operational role when it comes to representing an industry. However, they tend to break down visually when you can’t see most of the structure side. On occasion I’ll get around this by installing small shelf on the fascia so you can add more depth to the structure while still maintaining aisle widths for the most part. Make sure you extend the shelf a little beyond the length of the building for photographic purposes.

General Ship Repair

With photo laminates, having a solid core is crucial. I’ve learned the hard way that styrene can get “wiggly” over time. For General Ship Repair I built the core using aluminum bar stock. Spacers were placed inside out of 1 x 2 pvc wood. The ends and roof crown were made of .060″ styrene. Roofs have a tendency to sag. Aluminum yardsticks only cost a few dollars, are solid, and easy to cut so I used those.

Here’s the finished core with the rules in place on the roof.

….and here’s a view from beneath. Traditional CA was used for the adhesive. All done. Solid as a rock!

Brooklyn Terminal August 4

This weekend’s work completes the car float, pontoon float bridge, and vegetation on the pier yard. The car float is an un-modified Sylvan kit. The float bridge is a simple scratch build using styrene, an Atlas girder bridge, and assorted scraps and details from the scrap bin.

Here’s an overhead view of the finished area.