Model Railroad Blog

4835 E. 48th Street, July 16

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Shown above is the finished structure. I’ve found that the appearance of photo wallpaper models is improved if I inset the roll up doors so that was done by cutting holes in the .060″ laminate before mounting it to the pvc core.  The challenge of this model was the photos.  I had no choice but to take them shooting into the sun on a bright clear day.  A lot of photo editing was required to improve the subsequent dullness of the images.  In the past, I would have spent a lot of time editing out the foliage at the bottom.  I this case I decided to leave most of it and will just place scenery in front of it to cover it up.

4535 E. 48th St. July 15

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Over the last few years, I’ve become more and more aware of the need for a very solid core to prevent structure warping.  For styrene based projects I’m particularly fond of PVC “lumber” easily found at big box lumber stores.  It’s light, cheap, easy to cut, and works with plastic solvents.   For the current project, I picked up a PVC 1×2 and laminated .060″ styrene sheet to it with MEK. Using .060″ styrene alone was just causing too many stability problems.  Before laminating the photo wallpaper in place, I’ll add the eaves trim and paint and weather the roof.  Doing so before adding the photo wallpaper prevents it from overspray or other damage.  For the eaves (aka roof caps) I used .188″ by .020″ thick Evergreen strip.  The back of the eaves are flush with the back of the wall.  You want enough width on the eaves to allow for the thickness of the photo paper plus a little overhang.

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Shown above is an underside view.   For added insurance, I ran one-inch finishing nails into the connections.  If you do so, make sure you countersink or tap the nails in hard enough the head doesn’t protrude up above the surface. Roofs, in particular, are prone to sagging and warping over time.  For this project, I used scraps of leftover over sign material (Komacel) a quarter inch thick to get a more stable roof base.  Komacel is a little pricey so you might want to find something else but whatever you use, make sure it is thick and rigid.

Printing Better Images

From the emails I receive, I can tell folks struggle with how to optimize the printed image output quality for their photo wallpaper. It can be confusing so let’s go through a short primer. There are essentially two steps. First, you need to save the photo in a way that maximizes how many ink dots are laid down on the photo paper. More dots equates to crisper images. When you print you’ll want to ensure this is as high as possible to make the final result clean and clear. Second, you need to instruct your printer what to look for and what do with the image it is dealing with.

Resolution

Setting your image resolution (measured in dots per inch or dpi) is essentially producing an instruction for your printer for the time in the future you do the printout. For day to day use, say printing out your boarding pass, low resolution is fine and saves ink. For our modeling purposes, however, we need something higher or the image will appear to be fuzzy. 250 dpi is good enough, magazines want to see 300 dpi so I go with 300. To set the resolution In Adobe photoshop go to: Image-Resize-Image Size to pull up the screen you see above. Un-check “Resample Image” and then enter a value of 300 in resolution. HIt “ok”. (You tend to hit the point of diminishing returns above 300dpi so setting it at say, 600, won’t produce a noticeable improvement.)

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Next, we need to tell the printer what to do. I’ve had much better luck with glossy photo paper than matte and never use ordinary typing paper. Load your glossy photo paper in the printer and in Adobe Photoshop hit: File-Print, to bring up the screen above. Once you have the menu pulled up you need to tell the printer what type of paper it is dealing with or you’ll end up with a mess. Go to box 2, hit “change settings” and select the appropriate paper. Next, you need to tell the printer how large to print out the image. Using bricks, doors, or cinder blocks you can usually tell how tall a structure is. In the photo above the building is fifteen feet tall. 15 feet x 12 inches/foot divided by 87 for HO (160 for N) tells me that a fifteen foot tall building printed out to scale should be two inches tall (2.06 for you engineers). In box 5 select “custom print size”. A second screen will come up prompting you to input the height of your image. Finally, you can save paper and get multiple images on a sheet if you control where on the paper the image prints out. Where arrow three is shown above, un-check “center image” and set the top and left margins. In the example above I set them at 1.0 inches.

Hit “print” and you’re good to go! If the printing quality is still poor, it may be a case that it is time to invest in a new printer.

4535 East 48th Street

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Next on the docket is the back side of the one-story warehouse at 4535 E. 48th Street.   The faded cream bricks, graffiti, and weathering make it a motherload of color and texture.  Construction started with a considerable number of hours spent photo editing my site photos into something that could be made useable for the photo wallpaper laminate.  The process was complicated by the fact that every photo had to be shot into the sun and was less than ideal.  After the photo editing was done, the next step was to build a stable core using PVC 1×2’s.

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