Backdating the LAJ layout to the early 1960s has entailed educating myself as to the types of rolling stock that were on the rails during that era. It’s been a slow but fun process.
First up was the need for an era-suitable reefer for Federal Cold Storage. I chose Rapido’s Santa Fe RR-56 mechanical reefer (pn 156002A). This is simply an exquisite model with the finest of details. Many of said details are fine as a hair and therefore a bit delicate.
Today, I’ll walk you through the weathering process. With all things weathering, you want to focus on a number of light/subtle layers and shoot for finely feathered edges. The trick, and it’s a hard one to learn, is to…..know when to quit. Once you go one step too far, lay things on too thick, you’re pretty much screwed. There’s no going back. Not sure if you applied enough? Take a break. Walk the dog, mow the lawn, shovel the driveway. Then re-evaluate. You can always add another layer.
To build momentum, I start with the easier more forgiving steps, the underbody. I swapped in Kadee 158 scale couplers, cut off the trip pin, and carefully painted them with Model Master “Dark Earth”. Use a small brush and take care not to get any paint on the coupler’s hinge points. I painted the airhose Tamiya German Grey and the hose aircock Tamiya Dark Iron.
Remove the trucks and mask off the treads. Apply four or five light coats of Rustoleum Dark Gray Primer (rattle can). Spin the wheels between coats to get full coverage. Finally, dust on one or two light coats of Rustleum “Earth Brown” camo. paint (rattle can). If you need a break, nows a good time before moving to the next step.
Now for the primary step and one where you need to be totally rested and focused. This is where, if you’re too heavy-handed, you’ll ruin the model. Apply three or four light coats of Dullcote (rattle can) from various angles. I use a hair dryer to speed up drying time.
For coloring, we’ll be using Bragdon FF-69 “Weathered Brown” weathering chalk. It’s crucial to note that weathering powders are like paint from the standpoint that they bite hard and fast. Especially, with a dull surface, you can’t wipe them off after they’re down. Apply the powder with a 3/4″ wide, flat-tipped brush, starting with the roof.
Dip the brush in the powder. Now, the most important part of this entire blog, WIPE MOST OF THE CHALK OFF THE BRUSH, on a paper towel. Apply it exactly parallel to the roof ribs. Seal with Dullcote.
Now for the sides (and ends). Using perfectly vertical strokes, brush the chalk down across the car. It’s very easy to slant your strokes here and there. It’s not a good look and very hard to correct, so be careful. Work in very light layers. As before, know when to quit; better too little than too much. Because 3/4″ is a fairly wide brush, you’ll need to grab a smaller brush to work chalk into any tight spots.
To prevent damage to the underbody while you’re working, it’s easier to set the piece on a block of wood. Also, I always wear latex gloves during the weathering process.
Finally, we’re going to (very lightly) highlight the rivets on the ladders and grab irons. Artists’ felt-tip pens are very easy to work with and allow pinpoint accuracy. I picked up a pack of earth colors by a company called Tombow that I like. I think I got these at Michaels, but you can get them online also. Take a dark brown pen and lightly tap the ladder rivet heads. Once everything is done, apply one more light coat of Dullcote, and it’s a wrap.